Each epoxy river table is custom handcrafted by skilled woodworkers. From material selection to finishing, every step follows strict standardized procedures to ensure consistent quality.
Step 1: Layout Design
Craftsmen use scrap 1x1 inch wood strips to build a frame matching the final tabletop size.Wood pieces are carefully arranged along natural curves to preserve the wood’s grain and edges. Cut lines are marked with chalk or pencil, leaving a 1-inch margin for trimming.
Step 2: Cutting Slabs to Size
Wood boards are cut along marked lines, removing softwood, bark, and decay, retaining only solid, sound timber. Clean, precise cuts facilitate seamless resin filling.
Step 3: Cleaning Up the Slabs
Small or hard-to-reach areas are cleaned with a drill-mounted nylon brush to protect wood texture.
Step 4: Edge Sealing
Cut wood is sealed with 1–2 coats of epoxy resin, left to semi-cure for 12–18 hours. This prevents resin bleeding and air bubbles during casting.
Step 5: Building The Mold
Smooth MDF boards form molds sized approximately 2 inches larger than cut wood dimensions and 2 inches taller than wood thickness. All seams are sealed with fast-drying adhesive for a leak-proof mold. Mold is cured for one day before casting.
Step 6: Adding Mold Release
Special epoxy mold release agent is sprayed twice inside the mold, each coat wiped evenly after a few minutes, ensuring clean demolding without damage.
Step 7: Mixing Resin
Epoxy resin is checked and gently warmed if crystallization happens from cold or environmental conditions, then mixed in large buckets with low-speed electric mixers for at least 4 minutes, scraping the sides and bottom thoroughly. Afterwards, degas the mixture using a vacuum chamber for 30 to 60 minutes to eliminate fine air bubbles.
Step 8: Pouring Epoxy
Epoxy is poured slowly in layers to minimize air entrapment. After each layer, surface bubbles are removed with a torch or heat gun. Typically, 3–5 layers are cast; complex swirl designs require more. Each layer cures approximately 48 hours; the final layer requires 72+ hours.
Step 9: Waiting...
Typically, 3–5 layers are poured based on thickness, more for complex swirl patterns. About 12 hours after pouring, when resin viscosity is low, craftsmen use scrapers, fine combs, or heat tools to refine textures, repeating as needed to achieve the perfect effect. Each layer cures 48 hours before the next application. The final, thicker layer cures over 72 hours to ensure a bubble-free, clear, and smooth surface.
Step 10: Demolding
Once cured, screws securing the mold are removed. The mold sides are gently tapped with a rubber mallet and carefully pried away with wooden wedges to safely release the tabletop.
Step 11: Sanding
Fill defects with epoxy resin mixed with hardener, then smooth it flush with the surface. Use a sander to gradually sand with 100, 120, 150, 180, 240, and 320 grit sandpapers in sequence, avoiding skipping grits to ensure a smooth, even finish.
Step 12: Polishing
Using a low-speed electric polisher with a soft foam pad, polish in stages for 30–60 minutes to achieve a clear, smooth surface while preventing overheating and unevenness.
Step 13: Surface Finishing
Apply 5–6 coats of protective finish, polishing between each coat to ensure a uniform, flawless surface. Finally, apply the sealing topcoat within a vacuum chamber to effectively eliminate dust contamination.
Step 14: Quality Control & Packaging
Each piece undergoes rigorous inspection to ensure a flawless surface and structural integrity. Packaging consists of five protective layers: foam, fabric, cardboard, edge guards, and a custom wood crate. This comprehensive packaging guarantees safe delivery even over long distances.